However, I see in the product specifications page of the console controllers that they also support PC.
And the PC controllers sometimes support some of the consoles.
The only real difference between controllers, from a technology perspective, is that is some of them support bluetooth/2.4 GHz.
So I have two questions:
If they are already cross-compatible, why even bother having different types?
How should I decide which type of controller I should buy? It should support PC, console-support is not essential.
Note: I am a novice in game controllers but aware of different network stacks.
Edit: Thanks for the amazing response! These are my key takeaways from all the comments
Hall-effect sensors are a must
Default console controllers usually have stick drift
If you need trackpad, take PS5
8bitdo is a reliable brand, as per multiple responses
Most controllers have good support on Linux. But haptic feedback can be a hit/miss as it can be platform/game dependent
There are various connectivity wireless standards. Dongles are the most reliable but you lose a USB port.
Keep track of handsize/comfort and button layout
PS controllers have excellent support on Linux/Steam
Have some experience with Xbox controllers and steam controller
First official Xbox One X controller is absolute shit via bluetooth. Proprietary dongle works well, as long as its on windows - getting it to work under linux is a pain.
As far as compatibility goes Xbox 360 Dualshock with 2,4ghz wireless dongle is the best - dongle identifies as wired controller, it works correctly with everything.
Steam controller works with everything except ergonomics is IMO garbage. Dualshock rules in this area
And don’t even think about connecting anything via bluetooth to android - bluetooth drivers are broken since android 10, causing massive input lag. Use either wired, or Xbox 360 2,4ghz wireless dongle controller
Steam Controller’s ergo is great for me. It’s absolutely fucking weird compared to anything else, but I like larger grips on controllers since I have long fingers.
Unrelated to the actual question but related to the title: Check if the controller fits your hand size. For example, I don’t like the Xbox controller and much prefer the ps4 ones since they fit in my small hands better.
My husband swears by his Nintendo Pro controller, but he also has historically liked Xbox controllers.
Those options are too large to be comfortable in my hands, so I tend to go for undocked JoyCons and PlayStation controllers because they are better fits for me.
I use a PS4 controller for PC gaming. I definitely wouldn’t buy a specific controller for my PC without actually holding a sample in my hands first.
Ps5 controller is Bluetooth, works for me without any special drivers. Has native support in some games for the haptic triggers and touch pad. It’s a fantastic general purpose unit. The Nintendo switch classic NES controllers are awesome for retro emulation too- also Bluetooth. They make NES/SNES/N64 variants- but really the ps5 will handle all those use cases and feel just fine for any modern gaming.
Like others said, driver support for console controllers is pretty good through the board.
My suggestion: try them out, maybe in a local store on their demo stations (pretty regular around here at least) or by ordering and returning the one you don’t like.
I personally like the controller layout of the XBox controller more than the PlayStation one. But it comes down to preference. So definitely test drive to find the best suit for you.
Consoles have used different wireless tech/protocols but mostly use bluetooth now. Bluetooth devices should be able to work on pc but may require extra hassle like non standard protocol and no official drivers if they weren’t intended to be used that way. For the ones that do work the main takeaway is no additional dongle if your system already has bluetooth, but there may be addititonal input latency.
2.4ghz is kinda silly naming because bluetooth and wifi are both 2.4ghz, though wifi also has 5ghz, but it usually refers to presumably proprietary protocol over 2.4ghz and uses a usb dongle. It will generally be faster/lower latency but that isn’t even guaranteed as the 2.4ghz mentioned never refers to any standard.
The latency difference will only be noticible to cats or birds or something unless the controller tries to pass the headset audio to the pc. Bluetooth audio has a noticable delay compared to most ‘2.4ghz’ options, particularly noticable in rhythm games, games with inputs timed to audio cues, voice chats where everyone else has low latency audio and fast internet, and probably other stuff I’m not personally into.
Deciding your controller comes down to a lot of things. If the means exist in your area, try as many as you can to determine your most comfortable size, shape and layout. Other than that you absolutely must do yourself a favour and get a controller with hall effect sticks. The console companies all love stick drift. Don’t be fooled by Sony’s replacable stick controller either, the sticks are always out of stock and if you can solder you can get a regular controller and swap to hall effect yourself, both sticks, when drift starts for like $5 CAD vs $25 for 1 that will eventually die in the same way.
But probably just don’t give m$ sony or nint your money since they all get drift and I have replaced the battery and charge circuit on 8 separate ps4 controllers and drifting sticks on so so many of every big3 console controller. 8bitdo has a few stick and trigger hall effect controllers which I can mostly recommend, I have the hall stick only version of the ultimate controller and several of their older regular stick controllers. They are noted for their very close replica feel of snes dpad and face buttons but the configuration and firmware update software was windows only last I checked. I also quite like retro fighters controllers but all of their hall effect options are on closed preorder pending fulfillment. There are other highly regarded non big3 brands that I haven’t tried that seem to have pretty solid feature set and build quality too.
The used market is also an option. Arrange for testing though, and pass or haggle on drift, charging problems, filth, etc. Ifixit teardown guides for swapping parts or just cleaning the shells and button caps in soapy water with a soft rag. Watch out for devices originally sold with ‘soft touch’/‘smooth grip’/etc finish as all of them have degraded and become sticky even unopened in box by now.
Flydigi Vader 3/4 Pro. Been using one for a couple months. Hands down best controller I have used. Hall effects, trigger locks, rear buttons, mechanical face buttons, glorious d pad. The not so fun is the crap software and joystick defaults. Once you update on pc it is great. Under $100 for either model.
Do you use it on Linux? I recently got a Vader 4, it works wireless on xbox mode (using the xpad linux module), but I was hopping to make use of the gyro (hopefully without losing the analog triggers), and it seems that the dinput mode (which does allow some gyro action + analog triggers and working extra buttons) does not really work with the wireless dongle for me (it works if I plug it via cable, but that’s also not optimal since it disconnects mid play sometimes for some reason).
It’s really hard to beat a branded Xbox controller, these days. I was extremely skeptical for a long time, then I gave one a shot, and there’s no going back.
For PC, I would personally suggest looking for a controller with two things. Number 1, Hall effect sensors. Eliminate stick drift entirely with that alone. Number 2, replaceable joysticks. If the sticks last a long time, then the controller is expected to last longer. I just think having a way to replace work rubber is a good thing. Personally, I have loved Gulikit. My controller also happens to work on switch as well. Here is a link of you are interested in checking it out. Note that that is the controller I have, but you should definitely look at the different models. My controller has lasted about 3 years now. I used to go through PS5 controllers in about 6 months.
That is a totally fair question and one that I simply overlooked. Technically you can buy Gulikit through Amazon. I personally appreciate that the cost of it doesn’t go up over like a regular controller. Scuf did me dirty, I had a scuf for all of two months before the lb button fell apart and they refused to repair it. That thing cost me $185. This controller cost me $70.90 and has lasted me about two years. Here is a link to the Gulikit store on Amazon. I do recommend making sure it is from that store. I don’t know anything about it, but there is a AKNES store which sells gulikt controllers.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/BCC8C06B-7BF5-4D6C-A9A0-6290B8091F02?ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_ast_store_VJNBFMTJC962ENMFECCM
On an unrelated note, if you have joy cons with stick drift (who doesn’t have these) then Gulikit also sells just the stick modules so you can fix it for good.
Amazon still does that dumb shit where they allow them to sell a dozen different products on the same listing. And the names are all mislabeled so I don’t even know what product I’m looking at.
There is a tech difference with a DualSense controller that other controllers don’t have, and that’s the adaptive triggers. As far as I am aware, they’re the only ones with that. It’s a cool effect. Makes shooting in games feel more like handling a gun than vibration effects do.
Other than something like that, button layout is a choice. Parallel sticks or off-set sticks. Off center buttons. The way the D-pad functions (rolling style like Xbox or just 4 buttons like PlayStation). Etc.
Didn’t a Japanese company make a controller with native steam input? Is that controller any good? The thing with 8bitdo and the like is you can’t map back paddles to unique inputs via steam and they only can duplicate face buttons by programming the controller iirc.
I have a gulikit kk3, but I don’t love the dongle and don’t love the lack of native steam controller configuration for back paddles. Other than that, the hardware has been good for me.
Hori just made one but I think it’s Japan only and I don’t think it has back buttons. The KK3 is my current favorite. You don’t have to use the dongle. Bluetooth and wired work as well but Bluetooth is slow compared to the dongle.
It does have back buttons, which is why it’s unlikely to launch in the west as Scuf (owned by Corsair) is a major patent troll when it comes to those. That’s also the reason for the original Steam controller no longer being released.
The Hori one is launching at the end of this month, if I recall correctly. I might look into importing it once it does.
Their support sucks though. I had one of their controllers die on me after only 8 months of moderate use and after a way-too-long back and forth they demanded $15 to send me a new controller. Eventually we settled on $5, which is still $5 more than it should have been.
I’m not a PS layout kind of person. I looked at the more Xbox designed ones, but don’t folks say the ergonomics aren’t great? They have yours wrists or hands almost at parallel angles instead of a more open position based on the grip design? I almost went
I like the DualSense controller. Yes, it’s “for playstation” but all controllers work on PC nowadays. Especially on Linux, the driver for PS controllers is in the kernel, and they can work both wired and via Bluetooth.
It even supports using the special features of the DualSense in some games, like the adaptive triggers when playing Rift Apart or Forbidden West.
And the touchpad works as a mouse, which is handy.
I had a Dualsense and I loved it. it served me well until it met its end to a can of Soda and my Cat. Now I use my Childhood DualShock 3 to game. It has no where near as many QoL features as its younger brother (like the touchpad). But it’s so fucking durable.
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Have some experience with Xbox controllers and steam controller
First official Xbox One X controller is absolute shit via bluetooth. Proprietary dongle works well, as long as its on windows - getting it to work under linux is a pain.
As far as compatibility goes Xbox 360 Dualshock with 2,4ghz wireless dongle is the best - dongle identifies as wired controller, it works correctly with everything.
Steam controller works with everything except ergonomics is IMO garbage. Dualshock rules in this area
And don’t even think about connecting anything via bluetooth to android - bluetooth drivers are broken since android 10, causing massive input lag. Use either wired, or Xbox 360 2,4ghz wireless dongle controller
Steam Controller’s ergo is great for me. It’s absolutely fucking weird compared to anything else, but I like larger grips on controllers since I have long fingers.
Unrelated to the actual question but related to the title: Check if the controller fits your hand size. For example, I don’t like the Xbox controller and much prefer the ps4 ones since they fit in my small hands better.
This.
My husband swears by his Nintendo Pro controller, but he also has historically liked Xbox controllers.
Those options are too large to be comfortable in my hands, so I tend to go for undocked JoyCons and PlayStation controllers because they are better fits for me.
I use a PS4 controller for PC gaming. I definitely wouldn’t buy a specific controller for my PC without actually holding a sample in my hands first.
Pro tip: Buy silicone ergonomic grips for your joycons, they’ll stay small but your palms will be able to rest on them instead of floating in the air
Ps5 controller is Bluetooth, works for me without any special drivers. Has native support in some games for the haptic triggers and touch pad. It’s a fantastic general purpose unit. The Nintendo switch classic NES controllers are awesome for retro emulation too- also Bluetooth. They make NES/SNES/N64 variants- but really the ps5 will handle all those use cases and feel just fine for any modern gaming.
Like others said, driver support for console controllers is pretty good through the board.
My suggestion: try them out, maybe in a local store on their demo stations (pretty regular around here at least) or by ordering and returning the one you don’t like.
I personally like the controller layout of the XBox controller more than the PlayStation one. But it comes down to preference. So definitely test drive to find the best suit for you.
Is you need one with a track pad get a dualsense, otherwise 8bitdo all the way. Best third party controllers I’ve ever used.
Consoles have used different wireless tech/protocols but mostly use bluetooth now. Bluetooth devices should be able to work on pc but may require extra hassle like non standard protocol and no official drivers if they weren’t intended to be used that way. For the ones that do work the main takeaway is no additional dongle if your system already has bluetooth, but there may be addititonal input latency.
2.4ghz is kinda silly naming because bluetooth and wifi are both 2.4ghz, though wifi also has 5ghz, but it usually refers to presumably proprietary protocol over 2.4ghz and uses a usb dongle. It will generally be faster/lower latency but that isn’t even guaranteed as the 2.4ghz mentioned never refers to any standard.
The latency difference will only be noticible to cats or birds or something unless the controller tries to pass the headset audio to the pc. Bluetooth audio has a noticable delay compared to most ‘2.4ghz’ options, particularly noticable in rhythm games, games with inputs timed to audio cues, voice chats where everyone else has low latency audio and fast internet, and probably other stuff I’m not personally into.
Deciding your controller comes down to a lot of things. If the means exist in your area, try as many as you can to determine your most comfortable size, shape and layout. Other than that you absolutely must do yourself a favour and get a controller with hall effect sticks. The console companies all love stick drift. Don’t be fooled by Sony’s replacable stick controller either, the sticks are always out of stock and if you can solder you can get a regular controller and swap to hall effect yourself, both sticks, when drift starts for like $5 CAD vs $25 for 1 that will eventually die in the same way.
But probably just don’t give m$ sony or nint your money since they all get drift and I have replaced the battery and charge circuit on 8 separate ps4 controllers and drifting sticks on so so many of every big3 console controller. 8bitdo has a few stick and trigger hall effect controllers which I can mostly recommend, I have the hall stick only version of the ultimate controller and several of their older regular stick controllers. They are noted for their very close replica feel of snes dpad and face buttons but the configuration and firmware update software was windows only last I checked. I also quite like retro fighters controllers but all of their hall effect options are on closed preorder pending fulfillment. There are other highly regarded non big3 brands that I haven’t tried that seem to have pretty solid feature set and build quality too.
The used market is also an option. Arrange for testing though, and pass or haggle on drift, charging problems, filth, etc. Ifixit teardown guides for swapping parts or just cleaning the shells and button caps in soapy water with a soft rag. Watch out for devices originally sold with ‘soft touch’/‘smooth grip’/etc finish as all of them have degraded and become sticky even unopened in box by now.
I’ve been really happy with my gamesir g7 se.
I refuse to buy anything without hall effect sticks. So that’s limiting enough.
Which one(s) have you got? Do you like them?
Flydigi Vader 3/4 Pro. Been using one for a couple months. Hands down best controller I have used. Hall effects, trigger locks, rear buttons, mechanical face buttons, glorious d pad. The not so fun is the crap software and joystick defaults. Once you update on pc it is great. Under $100 for either model.
Do you use it on Linux? I recently got a Vader 4, it works wireless on xbox mode (using the xpad linux module), but I was hopping to make use of the gyro (hopefully without losing the analog triggers), and it seems that the dinput mode (which does allow some gyro action + analog triggers and working extra buttons) does not really work with the wireless dongle for me (it works if I plug it via cable, but that’s also not optimal since it disconnects mid play sometimes for some reason).
It’s really hard to beat a branded Xbox controller, these days. I was extremely skeptical for a long time, then I gave one a shot, and there’s no going back.
For PC, I would personally suggest looking for a controller with two things. Number 1, Hall effect sensors. Eliminate stick drift entirely with that alone. Number 2, replaceable joysticks. If the sticks last a long time, then the controller is expected to last longer. I just think having a way to replace work rubber is a good thing. Personally, I have loved Gulikit. My controller also happens to work on switch as well. Here is a link of you are interested in checking it out. Note that that is the controller I have, but you should definitely look at the different models. My controller has lasted about 3 years now. I used to go through PS5 controllers in about 6 months.
https://www.gulikit.com/productinfo/925509.html
How does Gulikit have a whole-ass website with zero links to actually buy their products?
That is a totally fair question and one that I simply overlooked. Technically you can buy Gulikit through Amazon. I personally appreciate that the cost of it doesn’t go up over like a regular controller. Scuf did me dirty, I had a scuf for all of two months before the lb button fell apart and they refused to repair it. That thing cost me $185. This controller cost me $70.90 and has lasted me about two years. Here is a link to the Gulikit store on Amazon. I do recommend making sure it is from that store. I don’t know anything about it, but there is a AKNES store which sells gulikt controllers. https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/BCC8C06B-7BF5-4D6C-A9A0-6290B8091F02?ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_ast_store_VJNBFMTJC962ENMFECCM
On an unrelated note, if you have joy cons with stick drift (who doesn’t have these) then Gulikit also sells just the stick modules so you can fix it for good.
Amazon still does that dumb shit where they allow them to sell a dozen different products on the same listing. And the names are all mislabeled so I don’t even know what product I’m looking at.
There is a tech difference with a DualSense controller that other controllers don’t have, and that’s the adaptive triggers. As far as I am aware, they’re the only ones with that. It’s a cool effect. Makes shooting in games feel more like handling a gun than vibration effects do.
Other than something like that, button layout is a choice. Parallel sticks or off-set sticks. Off center buttons. The way the D-pad functions (rolling style like Xbox or just 4 buttons like PlayStation). Etc.
But is that feature available outside PS5 on a PC?
Yes. The PC versions of both Forbidden West and Rift Apart had it working when I played.
Yes. On Sony games.
Didn’t a Japanese company make a controller with native steam input? Is that controller any good? The thing with 8bitdo and the like is you can’t map back paddles to unique inputs via steam and they only can duplicate face buttons by programming the controller iirc.
I have a gulikit kk3, but I don’t love the dongle and don’t love the lack of native steam controller configuration for back paddles. Other than that, the hardware has been good for me.
Hori just made one but I think it’s Japan only and I don’t think it has back buttons. The KK3 is my current favorite. You don’t have to use the dongle. Bluetooth and wired work as well but Bluetooth is slow compared to the dongle.
It does have back buttons, which is why it’s unlikely to launch in the west as Scuf (owned by Corsair) is a major patent troll when it comes to those. That’s also the reason for the original Steam controller no longer being released.
The Hori one is launching at the end of this month, if I recall correctly. I might look into importing it once it does.
8BitDo Pro 2 is one of the best controllers I’ve tried.
Unless they upgraded them recently, the triggers feel awful and cheap
Their support sucks though. I had one of their controllers die on me after only 8 months of moderate use and after a way-too-long back and forth they demanded $15 to send me a new controller. Eventually we settled on $5, which is still $5 more than it should have been.
I’m not a PS layout kind of person. I looked at the more Xbox designed ones, but don’t folks say the ergonomics aren’t great? They have yours wrists or hands almost at parallel angles instead of a more open position based on the grip design? I almost went
You’re exactly right, it’s uncomfortable to keep my hands in that position. The whole 8bitdo controller feels cheap, imo.
Don’t buy steelseries.
I like the DualSense controller. Yes, it’s “for playstation” but all controllers work on PC nowadays. Especially on Linux, the driver for PS controllers is in the kernel, and they can work both wired and via Bluetooth.
It even supports using the special features of the DualSense in some games, like the adaptive triggers when playing Rift Apart or Forbidden West.
And the touchpad works as a mouse, which is handy.
I had a Dualsense and I loved it. it served me well until it met its end to a can of Soda and my Cat. Now I use my Childhood DualShock 3 to game. It has no where near as many QoL features as its younger brother (like the touchpad). But it’s so fucking durable.
I don’t have a ton to add to this, but the Playstation controllers even pair with mobile devices with basically no setup. It’s impressive
The haptics and adaptive triggers are AMAZING in Returnal and Pacific Drive, too!
I bought some cheap PS and Xbox controller clones on eBay and they all work amazingly well OOTB on Linux