The 8bitdo ultimate or 2C wired look like good options. I haven’t used any of their controllers but I’ve heard good things about them, and they have hall effect joysticks!
I’ve got the 8bitdo Ultimate Bluetooth and it’s great. I finally upgraded to it from my old Xbox 360 wired controller. I would say it’s a worthy successor. I assume the wired versions are solid too.
I have a dualshock 4 that I use wired x3… honestly atm im just kinda waiting to see if a steam controller 2 comes out cause most of the controllers I saw on the market were lacking a decent bit of features, or basically the same as I have for double the price tho
most of the controllers I saw on the market were lacking a decent bit of features
Yeah, I’ve screwed that up on a number of occasions before. Didn’t think about the fact that there’s actually a set of features that I do care about, get a gamepad, get it, and then discover that it doesn’t do everything I want. Wish that there was some checklist out there so that people at least think of them before buying, even if it’s not features that they care about. Something like:
Wired mode of operation.
Wireless mode
Input latency. Unfortunately, I don’t think I’ve ever seen game controller companies rate and provide this, though several people have gone out and built measuring systems and then rated a variety of controllers. There is a surprising degree of variation in latency among gamepads. There’s also some variation for a given controller (especially for wireless), and the latency is large enough to be noticeable, especially for Bluetooth. Some discussion, and a database of measured latencies from someone doing so: https://gamepadla.com/
Rumble motors. This is one of my big “I don’t think about it at purchase time and then get a gamepad that lacks a feature that I want” issues.
Hall effect analog sticks. These avoid stick drift. I still don’t know what happened here, but twenty years ago, I had a Playstation 2 gamepad with analog sticks using regular old potentiometers that never saw drift. Today, a lot of the gamepads I do get, even when new, don’t reliably reach a perfect zero when my thumb is off them. It might be that that older gamepad had a larger hardware-imposed dead zone, and that newer gamepads don’t and expect one to deal with it at the PC level (which is obnoxious, IMHO), but it was enough to drive me bonkers. Hall effect analog sticks, unlike those with traditional potentiometers, don’t have stick drift, will reliably zero. They do cost more, but I personally am fed up enough with modern, potentiometer-based sticks not zeroing that I always want this.
Hall effect buttons. I don’t see the point – button sensors don’t have any problem, in my experience – but some gamepads have these.
Gyro
RGB LED
Battery life
Weight
Additional buttons that one can tie macros or whatever to.
XBox-style face button layout vs Nintendo-style face button layout. If you don’t care about correct button labels, Steam will let one swap these in Steam Input, but I’ve run into a couple of games that don’t like Steam Input, and if you play games outside of Steam, that’s not available, will need to do up some other form of mapping.
XBox-style vs Playstation-style analog/D-pad placement
DualSense-style haptic feedback. From memory, PC video game support for this is very rare, but some people might care.
Swappable, rather than built-in, batteries. Only an issue for wireless controllers. One reason I got a Logitech F710 some time back was because I wanted to have swappable AA batteries. Will add weight.
Depth of analog trigger pull.
Resistance of analog trigger pull. Some gamepads have rather more resistance, which can be fatiguing when playing driving games or something, where one is squeezing the trigger most of the time. I’ve never seen a manufacturer actually list resistance, unfortunately. This is particularly annoying because in the firearms world, listing trigger pull weight is a thing, so I know that people are able to do it…
Force required to depress buttons. I have had gamepads that are fatiguing. As far as I can tell, gamepad manufacturers don’t normally list this (unlike keyboard manufacturers, where keyswitch manufacturers do a great job of providing a whole graph of pressure at various depression depths).
Slightly clicky face buttons. This has become more popular recently, as best I can tell.
Linux support. Not usually an issue, but I had a newly-released official XBox controller that had some kind of authentication thing that made it a pain to get working at one point.
Linux Bluetooth support. This actually has, surprisingly-enough, been an issue for me with some official console joysticks. I think it was a DualSense gamepad that I had a ton of trouble with, probably non-standard stuff from Sony.
Linux support for updating controller firmware. Not going to be an issue with no-name $15 controllers, since there won’t be updates. I have had to use an XBox to update controller firmware before, after I couldn’t convince Linux to do it, even with a passthrough USB Windows VM.
Rounded D-pads. If you’ve ever used the original NES controller, you know that you can really start to hurt with rigid, squared-off edges. Most modern controllers are a lot more-comfortable than that.
Headphones/headset jack. I don’t route my headphones through my gamepad, but if you use a gamepad in wireless mode a long way from the computer along with wired headphones, it might be very desireable.
Can be disassembled. Some gamepads have all sorts of really weird security bits required. Probably doesn’t matter for most people, but of all electronic devices that I’ve personally pulled apart, gamepads have been the most-obnoxious; I have three entirely separate sets of screwdriver security bits that I’ve had to get at various points in time to pull apart gamepads.
This is a good list, but y’know a niche ya missed? Pressure sensitive buttons, only really useful for those emulating old games that used them, but still a fun feature to remember.
It’s not complete, just a mental brain-dump of the last time I was trying to build a list of gamepad features that might be of interest. I’m sure that there are some other missing things as well.
Most wireless controllers today have an integrated battery and can be used in either wired or wireless mode.
So it’s really just that the battery adds a bit of weight, and someday the thing will fail and maybe cause electrical failure of the gamepad. If that doesn’t bother you, could get a dual one and just use it in wireless mode.
That being said, I agree with the general principle that one should use wired unless there’s a compelling reason otherwise. Avoids security problems, interference issues, and a mess of compatibility issues. I had a Logitech F710 that used a proprietary wireless 2.4 GHz protocol. It didn’t support wired mode. At some point, something in my environment started blasting enough 2.4 GHz radio emissions that every now and then, the connection would briefly drop, which was absolutely infuriating, since it could cause one to lose in fast-paced action games.
If you very specifically want a gamepad that is only wired…hmm. There are a bunch of low-end, generic wired-only controllers that leave out wireless support to help get the price down. I can’t specifically recommend one of those; I’ve used a few, but all the ones I’ve used have had some things that annoy me, and probably a lot of the brands are throwaway ones that have gone under. If you want high-end…most of those are dual wired/wireless. IIRC, Thrustmaster has a high-end gamepad with swappable elements, and IIRC it’s wired-only, remember seeing that and thinking “wow, weird, most high-end gamepads are dual”. I haven’t used it myself.
goes to look
Yeah, the Thrustmaster S eSwap Pro, and it’s wired-only.
Thrustmaster has a long history of making pricey-but-nice high-end game peripherals — I think the first joystick I ever saw for sale was a nice metal thing from them at a computer expo in the early 1990s — so I’d generally be willing to try them, if you can live with the price. I don’t know if they have Hall effect analog sticks, which some people — including myself — like, as they’re immune to drift.
kagis
It sounds like the gamepad ships with standard potentiometer-based analog sticks, but that if one is willing to throw even more money at the gamepad, they do sell optional Hall effect sticks that can be swapped in.
However, the price is also pretty much in line with their history of being expensive. The basic gamepad is $140, and then each Hall effect analog stick module is another $40, which is very expensive for a gamepad; you can get inexpensive wired-only gamepads for something like $15, though they might not have amenities like rumble motors.
I’ve never actually owned a Thrustmaster product myself. I mostly went with CH stuff (another long-running American game input device manufacturer; they tend to make less-expensive, less-nice stuff). But I’ve definitely heard no shortage of positive stuff about Thrustmaster products over the decades. Might be worth considering if you don’t care about the price, specifically want wired, and are looking for high-end stuff.
Their https://eshop.thrustmaster.com/en_us/eswap-x2-pro-controller.html model looks good because you can swap out the dpad as well to give it the Playstation layout, but I wish I knew if their dpad was actually good. That is where nearly all third party controllers fail.
So it’s really just that the battery adds a bit of weight, and someday the thing will fail and maybe cause electrical failure of the gamepad.
Emphasis added, yeah this is among the reasons I’m asking. The other reasons I’ve noted, but this underlies a lot of it. I don’t know how long the dual-use ones’ batteries may last if I’m primarily using them wired, so instead of having that in the back of mind, I’d like to get a wired controller for when gaming on devices I’m already close to (which is mostly PC, hence asking for it specifically).
someday the thing will fail and maybe cause electrical failure of the gamepad.
Emphasis added, yeah this is among the reasons I’m asking.
Ah, gotcha. Yeah, that’s a real thing. If a lithium battery sits around discharged for too long — and they’ll constantly self-discharge, so anything on a shelf will get there — it’ll never work again. I do kind of think that there are too many devices with non-removable batteries that are going to wind up dead at some point. Might be possible to open the thing up and replace the internal battery in a wireless gamepad, if it’s standardized. I don’t know what wireless gamepads typically use.
That being said, if whatever one gets is an inexpensive gamepad, I mean, one option is to just throw it out and replace the thing at some point down the line when it stops working. Also solves other wear and tear problems…
Well, I can kinda answer that: I’ve got a launch PS4 controller that I mostly use wired on my PC and it’s fine.
If I use it wirelessly, it’ll still get about 5-6 hours, which basically means after 13 years it’s still right on spec for what it should be able to do.
Not really something that’s probably worth worrying about unless you’ve got some absolutely shitty batteries.
(Hell, I’ve still got some PS3 controllers that’ll do 3-4 hours, and they’re freaking ancient at this point.)
If you don’t care about anything but having a controller, I always recommend the Logitech F310. It’s cheap and durable, it also supports both Xinput and DirectInput by changing a toggle switch on the bottom, so it can be used even in older games that don’t have modern controller support without any external emulation layer.
It doesn’t have rumble, a gyro, or the extra pair of buttons most modern consoles have in the center (like the touch pad buttons on a dual sense), though. It’s just a 16 button, dual stick controller in the PS layout.
That’s what I’ve used for years now, and I have no problems with them.
I actually have three of them, of varying ages, all of which still work fine. The older ones have simple switch shoulder buttons and the newer ones have analog triggers, and that’s pretty much the only notable change they’ve made over the years.
The only “problem” I’ve run into with them is that the buttons and/or the pad will accumulate dust over time and stop working dependably, so I have to take them apart and clean the contacts every year or two. Which is very easy to do.
I got a wired wired XBox360 controller at GameStop 10 years ago for a really good price and it works wonders! I’m on Windows 8.1 and for most games it doesn’t require any sort of configuration either, I just plug it in and it works right away
I have a 360 controller and Microsoft offers a USB wireless dongle that lets me hook up any standard 360 controller. It pretty much works like it of the box with any game.
I think the top tier controllers unfortunately have a rechargable battery in them, some can be hooked up wired and act as so but eventually some day in the future the battery will die from the constant charging and might bloat. If anyone still makes a top tier wired controller it prob wouldnt work with the switch so theyd be losing out on sales for a major console and price the controller higher to make up for it. Essentially wired controllers have become a nieche product. If you find anything wired as good as guilikits controllers though let me know as well since thatd be pretty sick.
I’ve had an old Xbox 360 style controller for PC for like 15 years probably and never had any problems with it. Just plug and play. I personally have always preferred Xbox style controllers, though having tried the bells and whistles like adaptive triggers on the PS5 controller does make me consider upgrading at some point.
Yeah in hindsight I’m kicking myself for not having gotten one like that, but I had trouble finding wired ones at the time (and didn’t think I’d get tired of the battery maintenance), which surprised me.
I have had a Power A Fusion for around 5 years now and I love it. Replaced the sticks after a couple years cause the rubber wore out, but no drift issues or anything. Though it depends how hard you are on controllers. I have some friends that basically destroyed theirs in a year or two.
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The 8bitdo ultimate or 2C wired look like good options. I haven’t used any of their controllers but I’ve heard good things about them, and they have hall effect joysticks!
Yeah, I have the 8bitdo 2C (wireless). Highly recommend it. I’d imagine the wired version is just as good.
I use the wired one on PC and it works and feels great. Also it’s so cheap for such a good product.
I’ve got the 8bitdo Ultimate Bluetooth and it’s great. I finally upgraded to it from my old Xbox 360 wired controller. I would say it’s a worthy successor. I assume the wired versions are solid too.
If you’re on linux, DualSense controllers are awesome. I got mine for ~ $20 from a /r/buildapcsales post.
They’re great on windows too, and the extra features like the triggers are really nice for the games they work in
Pacific Drive and Returnal are completely different experienced with a Dualsense versus a normal controller!
I’ve had troubles on my windows machine with the controller not registering in-game. I have to use a third party program DSX to make it work.
For steam games? Steaminput’s translation layer seems to work pretty well
There are some games that it doesn’t seem to play nice with that I end up using DSX for myself, also it’s nice for non Steam games.
Any XBOX style controller that uses TMR sensors for the sticks, so you don’t ever have to worry about atick drift.
I have a dualshock 4 that I use wired x3… honestly atm im just kinda waiting to see if a steam controller 2 comes out cause most of the controllers I saw on the market were lacking a decent bit of features, or basically the same as I have for double the price tho
Yeah, I’ve screwed that up on a number of occasions before. Didn’t think about the fact that there’s actually a set of features that I do care about, get a gamepad, get it, and then discover that it doesn’t do everything I want. Wish that there was some checklist out there so that people at least think of them before buying, even if it’s not features that they care about. Something like:
Wired mode of operation.
Wireless mode
Input latency. Unfortunately, I don’t think I’ve ever seen game controller companies rate and provide this, though several people have gone out and built measuring systems and then rated a variety of controllers. There is a surprising degree of variation in latency among gamepads. There’s also some variation for a given controller (especially for wireless), and the latency is large enough to be noticeable, especially for Bluetooth. Some discussion, and a database of measured latencies from someone doing so: https://gamepadla.com/
Rumble motors. This is one of my big “I don’t think about it at purchase time and then get a gamepad that lacks a feature that I want” issues.
Hall effect analog sticks. These avoid stick drift. I still don’t know what happened here, but twenty years ago, I had a Playstation 2 gamepad with analog sticks using regular old potentiometers that never saw drift. Today, a lot of the gamepads I do get, even when new, don’t reliably reach a perfect zero when my thumb is off them. It might be that that older gamepad had a larger hardware-imposed dead zone, and that newer gamepads don’t and expect one to deal with it at the PC level (which is obnoxious, IMHO), but it was enough to drive me bonkers. Hall effect analog sticks, unlike those with traditional potentiometers, don’t have stick drift, will reliably zero. They do cost more, but I personally am fed up enough with modern, potentiometer-based sticks not zeroing that I always want this.
Hall effect buttons. I don’t see the point – button sensors don’t have any problem, in my experience – but some gamepads have these.
Gyro
RGB LED
Battery life
Weight
Additional buttons that one can tie macros or whatever to.
XBox-style face button layout vs Nintendo-style face button layout. If you don’t care about correct button labels, Steam will let one swap these in Steam Input, but I’ve run into a couple of games that don’t like Steam Input, and if you play games outside of Steam, that’s not available, will need to do up some other form of mapping.
XBox-style vs Playstation-style analog/D-pad placement
DualSense-style haptic feedback. From memory, PC video game support for this is very rare, but some people might care.
Swappable, rather than built-in, batteries. Only an issue for wireless controllers. One reason I got a Logitech F710 some time back was because I wanted to have swappable AA batteries. Will add weight.
Depth of analog trigger pull.
Resistance of analog trigger pull. Some gamepads have rather more resistance, which can be fatiguing when playing driving games or something, where one is squeezing the trigger most of the time. I’ve never seen a manufacturer actually list resistance, unfortunately. This is particularly annoying because in the firearms world, listing trigger pull weight is a thing, so I know that people are able to do it…
Force required to depress buttons. I have had gamepads that are fatiguing. As far as I can tell, gamepad manufacturers don’t normally list this (unlike keyboard manufacturers, where keyswitch manufacturers do a great job of providing a whole graph of pressure at various depression depths).
Slightly clicky face buttons. This has become more popular recently, as best I can tell.
Linux support. Not usually an issue, but I had a newly-released official XBox controller that had some kind of authentication thing that made it a pain to get working at one point.
Linux Bluetooth support. This actually has, surprisingly-enough, been an issue for me with some official console joysticks. I think it was a DualSense gamepad that I had a ton of trouble with, probably non-standard stuff from Sony.
Linux support for updating controller firmware. Not going to be an issue with no-name $15 controllers, since there won’t be updates. I have had to use an XBox to update controller firmware before, after I couldn’t convince Linux to do it, even with a passthrough USB Windows VM.
Rounded D-pads. If you’ve ever used the original NES controller, you know that you can really start to hurt with rigid, squared-off edges. Most modern controllers are a lot more-comfortable than that.
Headphones/headset jack. I don’t route my headphones through my gamepad, but if you use a gamepad in wireless mode a long way from the computer along with wired headphones, it might be very desireable.
Can be disassembled. Some gamepads have all sorts of really weird security bits required. Probably doesn’t matter for most people, but of all electronic devices that I’ve personally pulled apart, gamepads have been the most-obnoxious; I have three entirely separate sets of screwdriver security bits that I’ve had to get at various points in time to pull apart gamepads.
This is a good list, but y’know a niche ya missed? Pressure sensitive buttons, only really useful for those emulating old games that used them, but still a fun feature to remember.
Oh, yeah, good point.
It’s not complete, just a mental brain-dump of the last time I was trying to build a list of gamepad features that might be of interest. I’m sure that there are some other missing things as well.
Most wireless controllers today have an integrated battery and can be used in either wired or wireless mode.
So it’s really just that the battery adds a bit of weight, and someday the thing will fail and maybe cause electrical failure of the gamepad. If that doesn’t bother you, could get a dual one and just use it in wireless mode.
That being said, I agree with the general principle that one should use wired unless there’s a compelling reason otherwise. Avoids security problems, interference issues, and a mess of compatibility issues. I had a Logitech F710 that used a proprietary wireless 2.4 GHz protocol. It didn’t support wired mode. At some point, something in my environment started blasting enough 2.4 GHz radio emissions that every now and then, the connection would briefly drop, which was absolutely infuriating, since it could cause one to lose in fast-paced action games.
If you very specifically want a gamepad that is only wired…hmm. There are a bunch of low-end, generic wired-only controllers that leave out wireless support to help get the price down. I can’t specifically recommend one of those; I’ve used a few, but all the ones I’ve used have had some things that annoy me, and probably a lot of the brands are throwaway ones that have gone under. If you want high-end…most of those are dual wired/wireless. IIRC, Thrustmaster has a high-end gamepad with swappable elements, and IIRC it’s wired-only, remember seeing that and thinking “wow, weird, most high-end gamepads are dual”. I haven’t used it myself.
goes to look
Yeah, the Thrustmaster S eSwap Pro, and it’s wired-only.
https://eshop.thrustmaster.com/en_us/eswap-s-pro-controller.html
Thrustmaster has a long history of making pricey-but-nice high-end game peripherals — I think the first joystick I ever saw for sale was a nice metal thing from them at a computer expo in the early 1990s — so I’d generally be willing to try them, if you can live with the price. I don’t know if they have Hall effect analog sticks, which some people — including myself — like, as they’re immune to drift.
kagis
It sounds like the gamepad ships with standard potentiometer-based analog sticks, but that if one is willing to throw even more money at the gamepad, they do sell optional Hall effect sticks that can be swapped in.
https://www.thrustmaster.com/en-us/products/eswap-sh5-hall-stick-module/
However, the price is also pretty much in line with their history of being expensive. The basic gamepad is $140, and then each Hall effect analog stick module is another $40, which is very expensive for a gamepad; you can get inexpensive wired-only gamepads for something like $15, though they might not have amenities like rumble motors.
I’ve never actually owned a Thrustmaster product myself. I mostly went with CH stuff (another long-running American game input device manufacturer; they tend to make less-expensive, less-nice stuff). But I’ve definitely heard no shortage of positive stuff about Thrustmaster products over the decades. Might be worth considering if you don’t care about the price, specifically want wired, and are looking for high-end stuff.
Their https://eshop.thrustmaster.com/en_us/eswap-x2-pro-controller.html model looks good because you can swap out the dpad as well to give it the Playstation layout, but I wish I knew if their dpad was actually good. That is where nearly all third party controllers fail.
Emphasis added, yeah this is among the reasons I’m asking. The other reasons I’ve noted, but this underlies a lot of it. I don’t know how long the dual-use ones’ batteries may last if I’m primarily using them wired, so instead of having that in the back of mind, I’d like to get a wired controller for when gaming on devices I’m already close to (which is mostly PC, hence asking for it specifically).
Ah, gotcha. Yeah, that’s a real thing. If a lithium battery sits around discharged for too long — and they’ll constantly self-discharge, so anything on a shelf will get there — it’ll never work again. I do kind of think that there are too many devices with non-removable batteries that are going to wind up dead at some point. Might be possible to open the thing up and replace the internal battery in a wireless gamepad, if it’s standardized. I don’t know what wireless gamepads typically use.
That being said, if whatever one gets is an inexpensive gamepad, I mean, one option is to just throw it out and replace the thing at some point down the line when it stops working. Also solves other wear and tear problems…
Well, I can kinda answer that: I’ve got a launch PS4 controller that I mostly use wired on my PC and it’s fine.
If I use it wirelessly, it’ll still get about 5-6 hours, which basically means after 13 years it’s still right on spec for what it should be able to do.
Not really something that’s probably worth worrying about unless you’ve got some absolutely shitty batteries.
(Hell, I’ve still got some PS3 controllers that’ll do 3-4 hours, and they’re freaking ancient at this point.)
I absolutely love the 8BitDo Pro 2. Supports both wired/wireless, I just never unplug it.
If you don’t care about anything but having a controller, I always recommend the Logitech F310. It’s cheap and durable, it also supports both Xinput and DirectInput by changing a toggle switch on the bottom, so it can be used even in older games that don’t have modern controller support without any external emulation layer.
It doesn’t have rumble, a gyro, or the extra pair of buttons most modern consoles have in the center (like the touch pad buttons on a dual sense), though. It’s just a 16 button, dual stick controller in the PS layout.
That’s what I’ve used for years now, and I have no problems with them.
I actually have three of them, of varying ages, all of which still work fine. The older ones have simple switch shoulder buttons and the newer ones have analog triggers, and that’s pretty much the only notable change they’ve made over the years.
The only “problem” I’ve run into with them is that the buttons and/or the pad will accumulate dust over time and stop working dependably, so I have to take them apart and clean the contacts every year or two. Which is very easy to do.
I got a wired wired XBox360 controller at GameStop 10 years ago for a really good price and it works wonders! I’m on Windows 8.1 and for most games it doesn’t require any sort of configuration either, I just plug it in and it works right away
I have a 360 controller and Microsoft offers a USB wireless dongle that lets me hook up any standard 360 controller. It pretty much works like it of the box with any game.
I think the top tier controllers unfortunately have a rechargable battery in them, some can be hooked up wired and act as so but eventually some day in the future the battery will die from the constant charging and might bloat. If anyone still makes a top tier wired controller it prob wouldnt work with the switch so theyd be losing out on sales for a major console and price the controller higher to make up for it. Essentially wired controllers have become a nieche product. If you find anything wired as good as guilikits controllers though let me know as well since thatd be pretty sick.
Hori literally makes a great wired controller for Switch and it works on PC
I’ve had an old Xbox 360 style controller for PC for like 15 years probably and never had any problems with it. Just plug and play. I personally have always preferred Xbox style controllers, though having tried the bells and whistles like adaptive triggers on the PS5 controller does make me consider upgrading at some point.
Yeah in hindsight I’m kicking myself for not having gotten one like that, but I had trouble finding wired ones at the time (and didn’t think I’d get tired of the battery maintenance), which surprised me.
PowerA Xbox controllers are wired, cheap and actually very nice to use.
The cheap part of PowerA controllers is a little of why I asked, as I’ve not had an opportunity to ask anyone that’s used them.
There’s a discord community for building your own DIY azeron controller best of both worlds, joystick movements with mouse camera controls.
Switch Hori controller, $20, great quality especially for the price
I have had a Power A Fusion for around 5 years now and I love it. Replaced the sticks after a couple years cause the rubber wore out, but no drift issues or anything. Though it depends how hard you are on controllers. I have some friends that basically destroyed theirs in a year or two.
Steam Controller
All hail the mighty steam controller