We’ve all been there, back in the day haha

But they had “kernel tweaks for buttery smooth performance!!! ^*”

* oh yeah bluetooth, wifi, fingerprint sensor doesn’t work, camera takes green tint pictures, phone app crashes, and I’ve had some hard lockups, but it’s been my daily driver for two hours now and it’s awesome!!1!

What do you expect from running 10 and more amperes through a cord?

Well , I expect enough engineering behind it that the cord and connections don’t melt. I am an auto electrician, I routinely deal with 12v systems that draw much more than that without melting, using connections that aren’t much bigger. It’s not like it’s some mystical technology, it’s just that this setup has been done on a budget.

But it doesn’t help that every single logic gate in a graphics card is run at a speed/currents that are literally just below meltdown.

It’s difficult on the back end of the charger as well.

A shopping centre or rest stop can’t just spring for a few high capacity chargers for the car park. A single megawatt charger is 50 houses worth of consumption, so they now need a substation upgrade to provide what is basically a whole neighbourhood-equivalent of power.

It’s only one wire in the cable, and it’s not the wire, but it looks like the pin, or possibly the crimp point on the female pin.

So a few possibilities:

• Bad pins. Female pins (sockets) have internal wipers that grip the male pin and there is also the crimp connection. Bad QA on those leads to hotspots in the pin under high current draw. I’d probably go for this explanation, looking at the photos.

• Bad electrical layout on the card that means that the bulk of the current goes through this pin. Milliohms on the track traces are enough to cause imbalances. This might be balanced out by having a small-but-still-larger resistance in the (standard) cable, which leads to:

• It looks like thicker cabling is soldered and heatshrinked to smaller cabling that actually goes into the pins in the connector. There’s a reason why industrial cable connections aren’t soldered. Possibly a solder connection on another cable has broken and hidden in the hearshrink leaving more current to pass through this one.

• Following from this it’s also quite possible that the thicker cable with less resistance , now has less voltage drop across it, and simply allows more current then designed through a connection already at its limit.

• It’s quite possible that there are different pins/connector sets for different current draws. This cable might be using the wrong connector with the same physical size but lower current rating. The fact that the cable has been soldered to skinnier wires in the actual connector suggests this, but it’s quite possible that the connector is the right one.

It was a Sharp “Memory LCD”.

https://sharpdevices.com/memory-lcd/

Basically “visible memory storage”.

You treat it as addressable memory and write into it, and it will hold that state using about 15 microwatts to do so.

You can still buy the display modules , there’s a few boards that let you easily drive them with arduinos and etc.

You can set up fast roaming (802.11r) which is supported by most mobile clients and gives a much more organised handover between APs. Bit of config tangle but apparently works ok once you get it going.

Why the fuck isn’t there just a simple status LED that is on the same circuit as the camera?

Because cameras aren’t simple on-off devices powered by a single wire, that’s why. It’s always got power, and it’s turned “on” (send image data over the data bus) and “off” (do not send data) by software commands over the same data bus.

So the most convenient solution is then have the camera IC have an output that can drive an indicator light. And as camera ICs are basically full computers in their own right, they can be reprogrammed so that they don’t turn on that output.

End result is that you are much better off either having a physical cover over the camera lens, or having a USB camera that you can unplug.

That’s easy. Just fly somewhere and bring it in your carry-on, airport security will let you know.

Dammit now I have to reduce the block size of my discord-based cold storage filesystem.

Letting it ring has no impact. They have autodiallers that call, and when someone picks up, only then is that call assigned to someone in the call centre.

You can often tell this because there is a marked delay in the response to your initial “Hello?”. Long enough that you can reliably just hang up if you don’t hear a response in two seconds.

If it’s a real person who actually wants to call you and they you call again straight away, you can just shrug off your hang-up as a network issue.

Ok so as a indicative figure, my air-conditioned three bedroom home in Australia uses about 20kWh a day in the hottest part of the year, which multiplies out to about 0.6 MWh a month.

I wouldn’t expect the average Chinese home to use more than that, because that’s getting on the higher end of average usage in Australia and our homes are full of energy gobbling gadgets.

An electric Dash-8 equivalent with 20-40 seats would be a game changer on regional routes.

The engines are the highest maintenance and cost items in aircraft. Electric motors should* drastically reduce that. Regional/small use routes are often on razor thin margins, anything to improve those margins will be taken on board very quickly.

*Perhaps battery maintenance replaces that cost with a rough equivalent, I don’t know

I just would like to see the results of a recommendation algorithm that gives you something that it thinks you definitely won’t like, say, 20 percent of the time.

Because a lot of times in my endless scrolling I just end up with the same old drivel. Throw me something challenging occasionally, jeeeez.

As an Australian, I’ve found the Fediverse to be nicer and much less repetitive when posts containing these words are blocked.

Of course, that’s my choice. Funny how meta doesn’t provide a generalised keyword post blocker… it’s almost like they’re worried you’d accidentally block too much or something.

And I do like the phrasing. “Here’s how to get control back!” Yes, yes, get back your control of an endless algorithmic feed designed to maximise engagement and profit, of course, it’s simple!

Win10 with Classic Shell is good enough for me… Until I have to dig into the control panel and dick around with any network settings harder than “hurrr durrr SSID and password goes here”. Luckily Simple IP Config does all the heavy lifting for me on that front.

But hey, having to use third party utilities to make my OS usable is just The Microsoft Way at this point.

But but but it’s Designed In California™ , that makes it All American 🇺🇲🇺🇲🫡🫡

Is this news? In the early 2000s I couldn’t stand working with 60Hz monitors, there was noticeable flicker. Setting them to 72Hz was a definite improvement.

About 90 percent of my coworkers were like, “Why are you fiddling with the display settings? Flicker? Wot flicker?”

But I guess that’s different.

Yes, because they’re talking about the mains supply cable which carries hazardous voltages, not the charging cable.

Nobody gives a crap if 5 volts is exposed. Many more craps are given once you get above a hundred volts.

Make laws that give consumers mandatory, irrevocable warranties that include fit-for-purpose clauses, and has phrasing such as “reasonable expected lifetime” for the goods. Make those laws apply to whoever sells you the goods, not the manufacturer.

Laws like that weed out a lot of crap. Shops won’t buy crap in because they have to deal with the warranty on said crap. Manufacturers won’t make (as much) crap because they have to deal with returns.

You won’t be able to buy a $4 air fryer any more, but the one you do buy will last a lot longer.

Edit: I’m Australian, and we have consumer rights over and above warranties offered by manufacturers. Those rights would be a good start.

They start about half way down this page:

https://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/buying-products-and-services/consumer-rights-and-guarantees

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I wouldn’t consider this to be an on topic post for the “worldnews” or “world” communities. If you cross-post to everywhere, why even have communities?

But posting this to technology, software, AI, communities, no problem.

What? FLNTRGY brand products are the best ones out there! The cream of the crop! Much better than ZNGTOPF or PNOPTY!

I use android auto in numerous rental cars. Some head units are so slow to process taps or menu selections that it is pretty much unusable.

The normal headunit UI is generally ok, so either there’s a whole lot of overhead for android auto, or some programmer simply dropped the base example implementation of it into the system and did zero work at optimising it.

Personally, I’m betting that it’s the latter. “Supports Android Auto” box has been ticked on the feature sheet, send it.

I have a Samsung A71, one of the reasons I chose it was because it had a headphone socket. It’s not a “cool” phone but it’s very practical, and it wasn’t outrageously expensive.

I have had a very nice pair of corded noise cancelling headphones for 7 years now, and I’m not about to give them up.

No headphone socket on all the cool phones now, remember?

So now the manufacturer needs to squeeze a FM antenna into the phone and they juuuust used “lack of space” as the bullshit excuse for removing the headphone socket on this new model so they’d much prefer to pretend that FM radio didn’t exist thanks.