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Darktable is an excellent replacement
I’ll try it again, but several years ago when I tried it I didn’t find it as good.
There have been a few changes, but it is mostly the same I think.
Out of interest, what wasn’t as good?
Workflow just wasn’t as good, it didn’t have a lot of the little features (search was definitely not as nice to use), and as a Nikon shooter back then, it never nailed the Nikon colours the way I wanted without very heavy post-processing, which was time I didn’t want to spend.